Last time I talked about sunscreen, but I also mentioned retinol. Retinol is a powerful skincare ingredient. It can do wonders to your skin, if you give it time. When I first heard of retinol, I figured it was for the older generation to get rid of their already present wrinkles and fine lines. This is not the case at all. Retinol is for all ages, and I recommend starting it earlier than later. If you use it early, you are preventing wrinkles and adding more and more time in between now and when they form. Retinol is more expensive than the average face wash, or moisturizer, so research the product and it’s brand before you buy, to make sure you get the potency level appropriate for your skin. Yes! There are different strengths. You need to work your way up slowly, as to not ruin or inflame the skin. Retinol is potent, and if you put an outrageous amount on your skin, you risk ruining it. Please don’t do that. I recommend doing a patch test on your forearm first, that way you will know if you can tolerate it. Just because your skin gets red, and flaky does not mean you should stop. Go down to a lower concentration and then work your way up to the powerful stuff.
Remember when I talked about sunscreen, I mentioned the damaging effects of photoaged skin? Well, retinol helps repair that photoaged skin. Photoaged skin produces laxity, uneven skin tone, and can cause drying and roughness of the skin. Retinol helps to relieve these issues, such as stimulating collagen production and influences cell turnover. Your skin sheds skin consistently, and through that shedding comes beautiful skin. Retinol just speeds up that process. Retinol also has multiple strengths and can range anywhere from .1% to 1.6%, though there are higher strengths, but they are too damaging for the skin. The common strengths you’ll find in skin care productions are .25%, .3%, .5%, and 1%. If a product claims to have retinol, but you do not see the strength anywhere on the ingredient label, it is most likely less that .25%.
“We demonstrated that the long-term topical application (up to 9 months) of retinol 0.1% on the face also stimulates epidermal cell proliferation in vivo and improves the signs of aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and tone evenness”
Say Doctors from the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology
Retinol does not change your skin overnight. You need to make it a staple in your routine and make it a habit. Do not use it every day, try it once or twice a week, and if your skin can handle it, increase to three times a week or every other night. Don’t use it in the morning because it makes your skin sensitive to the sun, so use it at night ONLY.
You are probably wondering what retinol is. Retinol is a type of retinoid, and retinoids are Vitamin A derivatives. Scientists convert retinoids into retinoic acid, which is used in topical cosmetic items. You can find retinoids almost anywhere that sells skincare. You can also take retinoids in pill form, such as isotretinoin or Accutane. There is Retin-A micro, or tretinoin, that is good for unclogging pores and getting rid of acne. We can only buy the strongest retinoids with a prescription. But we can buy Differin gel without one! Differin, or adapalene, is a powerful acne treatment that I have used myself. I mostly use it as a spot treatment. It is all gone now š¦ I need to get some more. That’s how much I’ve used it. It lasts for a long time too. You will definitely get your money’s worth. Now, back to retinol. So, retinol is a type of retinoid, but is a very popular skincare item that many people use and sought after. You don’t need a prescription either! Retinol, retinoids, all of it can be confusing. They all do the same thing, but the only difference between retinol and retinoids is their strength and molecular structures.
Unfortunately, retinol is not a stable ingredient. If you leave your skin care retinol product in the light or in oxygen filled environments, it will lose its effects. Luckily, the manufacturer will have packaging that will contain the shelf life. The bottles are usually impermeable to oxygen and opaque. If you don’t what that type of retinol, you can also buy encapsulated versions. Scientists also apply antioxidants to stabilize the retinol, so it can be in the light. I also want to point out that when first using retinol your skin may react, most likely it will sting and get red or flaky. Don’t freak out, just lower your dose. Tolerance will depend on skin type, race, age, and the extent of your photo-damage. Retinoid’s do not offer “any ultraviolet blocking or protection, although they may offer some beneficial effect on the elimination of free radicals” says Marcia Ramos-e-Silva, a medical dermatologist in Brazil. Wear sunscreen every single day, especially if you want to use your retinol product in the morning.
Photo by Dominique Johnson 
Photo by Dominique Johnson
Okay guys, here are two retinol products I have tried in the past form The Ordinary. The Ordinary is a great company that makes products with simple ingredients with NO additives, whatsoever. They are crazy cheap too. I bought 6 items for a little over 50$. At Ulta or Sephora you’ll be lucky to get two products out of that. The first picture is of The Ordinary’s Retinol 0.2% in Squalene. This is a tinted liquid, a little yellowish. Squalene is a natural moisturizer that many products are beginning to include. A little goes a long way. The .2% retinol is the lowest retinol they sale. I recommend starting small and working your way up. The Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion is a liquid as well but it is milky. It is yellowish white so don’t be alarmed when you see it. This is their strongest retinol, especially because it’s a retinoid, not retinol.
I don’t think I have talked about purging yet. If you introduce a retinol or an acid to your skincare routine your skin will be in limbo-type phase. Skin purgingĀ refers to yourĀ skin’sĀ reaction to a specific active ingredient that “triggers cell turnover, causing your skin to exfoliate and bring congestion to the surface,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Sapna Palep.Ā Purging occurs in reaction to chemical exfoliant’s and retinoids. Your skin is getting used to a new product. You will see your skin get WORSE before it gets better. A lot of zit’s will pop up out of the blue, and you will probably see more oil and blackheads appear. This will be the case for a month or so. Hang in there! I know it seems bad, (it definitely looks bad), but you will be all the happier for it. I recently introduced a new acid into my routine a few weeks ago, so I am currently going through the limbo phase myself 
Just tell yourself it’ll be okay, and that it will go away soon. I will be talking about acid’s and exfoliant’s next time!
Since some of us are vegan’s we need to be careful when choosing products to buy. Luckily for us, scientists have worked hard to create plant based retinol, vitamin A product’s. Here I have listed links to vegan, cruelty-free, plant based retinol serums publishers and bloggers have recommended. https://www.onegreenplanet.org/lifestyle/cruelty-free-retinol-serums/ https://www.freethebunnies.com/cruelty-free-retinol/
References:
Oddos, T., Bruere, V., Stamatas, G., & Bertin, C. (2009). Retinol stimulates epidermal cell proliferation in vivo and reduces facial signs of skin aging. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 60(3). doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2008.11.152
Ramos-e-Silva, M., Celem, L. R., Ramos-e-Silva, S., & Fucci-da-Costa, A. P. (2013). Anti-aging cosmetics: Facts and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 31(6), 750-758. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2013.05.013
SkinCare for Vegan's By Vegan's 